The Dualities Of Life

by Daniela Reiser


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As human beings we are curious creatures, however as soon as I have said that I would also say we are comfortable and bound to routine and “tradition” and often fear change, yet we all change constantly even if it’s not imminently visible. I personally have changed over the past few years, my habits have changed, and some may call my new way of life extreme. You can become an extremist and be in constant fear and anger, or you can live as true as possible to your believes, never stop asking questions and trying to find the optimal solution and do something about it.

How can I be in fashion as a vegan if I don’t use leather, wool, silk or fur? I can be in fashion because although I do not stand for any usage of animal fiber or skin, I am still an admirer of the arts and craft of the fashion industry. All I can do is change what is in my control, I can change my eating habits, my shopping habits and my attitude towards any of these subjects. I can admire fashion designers who use all those products for their talents and their ideas, creativity and entrepreneurship, they don’t change me as a person and they won’t change my values. I don’t support the usage of those materials but I support the art, and my job is to let the art inspire me in finding ways to show that other materials can be transformed into the same art form without the usage of traditional materials that come with a huge amount of untold and unseen stories.

A recent saying by actress and Oscar winner Lupita Nyong’o: “It doesn’t escape me for one moment that so much joy in my life is thanks to so much pain in someone else’s.”

I want to apply this to the fashion industry, all these beautiful gowns we admire, all the fur jackets that are stunningly in their natural colours and patterns, all the leather accessories and shoes, which bring companies so much profit and us so much luxury, while we forget how much pain it caused someone else.

Movies, documentaries and pictures are created in order to portray someone’s story, to educate and prevent these events from happening again. We have to be a voice for injustice by creating such material and making them publicly available.

I try to be true to what I, as a person and as a fashion designer, stand for. If I can dream, learn, educate, transform and create, I have a chance to show my vision.

It’s not up to me to lecture other people about their habits or preferences, it is up to me to change mine and create something of my own, therefore facilitating people who are looking for change. As a designer with such core values it is my decision to create beauty and art to showcase an alternative solution.

Fun kids pillow made from 100% recycled plastic bottle felt, eco friendly and vegan, available in many sizes, colours and designs, cover is washable. Custom orders available. Fabric is made in the USA and the pillow is made in Canada.

Fun kids pillow made from 100% recycled plastic bottle felt, eco friendly and vegan, available in many sizes, colours and designs, cover is washable. Custom orders available. Fabric is made in the USA and the pillow is made in Canada.

Vegan Leather "Pleather", Eco friendly fabrics, hand woven, hand dyed cotton ikat

Vegan Leather "Pleather", Eco friendly fabrics, hand woven, hand dyed cotton ikat



Linen and how it is made

by Daniela Reiser


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Linen is one of my favourite fabrics. Used mostly in spring/summer wear, I love to wear my long sleeve linen blouses all year round.

Technically linen is a vegetable! Linen fabric is made from the cellulose fibers that grow inside of the stalks of the flax plant, or Linum usitatissimum--one of the oldest cultivated plants in history.

Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one growing season. From seed-planting, it is ready to be harvested in about a hundred days. Unless the weather is particularly warm and dry, flax requires little watering or attention during this time. It grows to about three or four feet tall, with glossy bluish-green leaves and pale blue flowers--though on rare occasions, the flowers bloom red.

Here is a short film about the process:

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RETTING - the different methods:

http://www.t-pot.eu/docs/Workshops/INFMP_4_Retting_Konczewitz.pdf

 

The Manufacturing 
Process

Cultivating

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  • 1 It takes about 100 days from seed planting to harvesting of the flax plant. Flax cannot endure very hot weather; thus, in many countries, the planting of seed is figured from the date or time of year in which the flax must be harvested due to heat and the growers count back 100 days to determine a date for planting. In some areas of the world, flax is sown in winter because of heat in early spring. In commercial production, the land is plowed in the spring then worked into a good seedbed by discing, harrowing, and rolling. Flax seeds must be shallowly planted. Seeds may be broadcast by hand, but the

    Once flax is harvested and the fiber removed from the stalks, a scutching machine removes the broken outer layer called shives.

    seed must be covered over with soil. Machines may also plant the seed in rows.

    Flax plants are poor competitors with weeds. Weeds reduce fiber yields and increase the difficulty in harvesting the plant. Tillage of the soil reduces weeds as do herbicides. When the flax plants are just a few inches high, the area must be carefully weeded so as not to disturb the delicate sprouts. In three months, the plants are straight, slender stalks that may be 2-4 ft (61-122 cm) in height with small blue or white fibers. (Flax plants with blue flowers yield the finest linen fibers.)

Harvesting

  • 2 After about 90 days, the leaves wither, the stem turns yellow and the seeds turn brown, indicating it is time to harvest the plant. The plant must be pulled as soon as it appears brown as any delay results in linen without the prized luster. It is imperative that the stalk not be cut in the harvesting process but removed from the ground intact; if the stalk is cut the sap is lost, and this affects the quality of the linen. These plants are often pulled out of the ground by hand, grasped just under the seed heads and gently tugged. The tapered ends of the stalk must be preserved so that a smooth yarn may be spun. These stalks are tied in bundles called beets and are ready for extraction of the flax fiber in the stalk. However, fairly efficient machines can pull the plants from the ground as well.

Releasing the Fiber from the stalk

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  • 3 The plant is passed through coarse combs, which removes the seeds and leaves from the plant. This process, called

    The fiber is combed and separated by length. Line fibers (long linen fibers) are spun into linen yarn.

    rippling, is mechanized in many of the flax-producing countries.
  • 4 The woody bark surrounding the flax fiber is decomposed by water or chemical retting, which loosens the pectin or gum that attaches the fiber to the stem. If flax is not fully retted, the stalk of the plant cannot be separated from the fiber without injuring the delicate fiber. Thus, retting has to be carefully executed. Too little retting may not permit the fiber to be separated from the stalk with ease. Too much retting or rotting will weaken fibers.

    Retting may be accomplished in a variety of ways. In some parts of the world, linen is still retted by hand, using moisture to rot away the bark. The stalks are spread on dewy slopes, submerged in stagnant pools of water, or placed in running streams. Workers must wait for the water to begin rotting or fermenting the stem—sometimes more than a week or two. However, most manufacturers use chemicals for retting. The plants are placed in a solution either of alkali or oxalic acid, then pressurized and boiled. This method is easy to monitor and rather quick, although some believe that chemical retting adversely affects the color and strength of the fiber and hand retting produces the finest linen. Vat or mechanical retting requires that the stalks be submerged in vats of warm water, hastening the decomposition of the stem. The flax is then removed from the vats and passed between rollers to crush the bark as clean water flushes away the pectin and other impurities.

  • 5 After the retting process, the flax plants are squeezed and allowed to dry out before they undergo the process called breaking. In order to crush the decomposed stalks, they are sent through fluted rollers which break up the stem and separate the exterior fibers from the bast that will be used to make linen. This process breaks the stalk into small pieces of bark called shives. Then, the shives are scutched. The scutching machine removes the broken shives with rotating paddles, finally releasing the flax fiber from stalk.
  • 6 The fibers are now combed and straightened in preparation for spinning. This separates the short fibers (called tow and used for making more coarse, sturdy goods) from the longer and more luxurious linen fibers. The very finest flax fibers are called line or dressed flax, and the fibers may be anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-51 cm) in length.

Spinning

  • 7 Line fibers (long linen fibers) are put through machines called spreaders, which combine fibers of the same length, laying the fibers parallel so that the ends overlap, creating a sliver. The sliver passes through a set of rollers, making a roving which is ready to spin.
  • 8 The linen rovings, resembling tresses of blonde hair, are put on a spinning frame and drawn out into thread and ultimately wound on bobbins or spools. Many such spools are filled on a spinning frame at the same time. The fibers are formed into a continuous ribbon by being pressed between rollers and combed over fine pins. This operation constantly pulls and elongates the ribbon-like linen until it is given its final twist for strength and wound on the bobbin. While linen is a strong fiber, it is rather inelastic. Thus, the atmosphere within the spinning factory must be both humid and warm in order to render the fiber easier to work into yarn. In this hot, humid factory the linen is wet spun in which the roving is run through a hot water bath in order to bind the fibers together thus creating a fine yarn. Dry spinning does not use moisture for spinning. This produces rough, uneven yarn that are used for making inexpensive twines or coarse yarns.
  • 9 These moist yarns are transferred from bobbins on the spinning frame to large take-up reels. These linen reels are taken to dryers, and when the yarn is dry, it is wound onto bobbins for weaving or wound into yarn spools of varying weight. The standard measure of flax yarn is the cut. It is based on the measure of 1 lb (453.59 g) of flax spun to make 300 yd (274.2 m) of yarn being equal to one cut. If 1 lb (453.59 g) of flax is spun into 600 yd (548.4 m), then it is a "no. 2 cut." The higher the cut, the finer the yarn becomes. The yarn now awaits transport to the loom for weaving into fabrics, toweling, or for use as twine or rope.

Byproducts/Waste

Of greatest concern are the chemicals used in retting. These chemicals must be neutralized before being released into water supplies. The stalks, leaves, seed pods, etc. are natural organic materials and are not hazardous unless impregnated with much of the chemicals left behind in the retting process. The only other concern with the processing of linen is the smell—it is said that hand-retted linen produces quite a stench and is most unpleasant to experience.